Cue Facts & Fiction

(Tip Selection)

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Page Contents (click to jump to the section):
bullet Six questions to ask yourself about how you're playing
bulletLot's of choices -- Updated 01/08/05
bullet Table 2 -- Widely used Tips for "Standard Play" -- Updated 01/08/05
bulletSome simple criteria to get you help you choose
bulletGeneralizing tip performance
bullet Recommendations, but the choice is yours!
bulletSpecialized Tips - Sorry, This section is not ready yet, please check back the next time that you visit
 

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No Matter what you think about anything else that you read on this web site (or anywhere else for that matter), the simple truth is that without a decent tip on your shaft, you might just as well be playing with a Mop Handle! Matter of fact, a Mop Handle with a decent tip glued to the end of it will probably play better than a $1000 custom cue with a bad tip!*

*Note -- Even a very expensive tip that is not properly maintained is still a "bad tip", so please don't think that an expensive but "poorly maintained" tip is acceptable...IT IS NOT!

For more information on the care and maintenance of tips, please refer to the Tip Maintenance and Replacement section of this web site.

 

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Six questions to ask yourself about how you're playing -- Players are probably more passionate AND opinionated on the subject of the "BEST TIP TO USE" than on any other topic with respect to their cues, and frankly, I'm no exception.

So, that being said, let's start off with a basic assumption -- EVERY PLAYER that I've ever met is constantly on the look-out for something that will give them a competitive "edge" when they're shooting. Invariably, they are always evaluating their equipment by asking something analogous to the following six questions:

  1. Am I happy with the performance of my cue?

  2. Am I miscuing more than I think I should ?

  3. Am I applying DRAW the way I want to?

  4. Am I applying FOLLOW the way I want to?

  5. Am I applying ENGLISH (side-spin) the way I want to?

  6. Does the hit "FEEL" the way I want it to?

If the above questions strike you as subjective and easy to answer but difficult to quantify, THEY ARE! But that being said, if all other factors are equal (you didn't suddenly develop (or lose) a "killer stroke" or "laser vision", you've haven't changed your shaft, butt, or weight and balance point), then RESHAPING or CHANGING your tip will probably show immediate and/or often significant changes to your responses to the above questions. Of course, these could be good changes or bad changes, so "Experimenter Beware"!!

 
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Lots of Choices -- Well, with ALL THAT out of the way, let's talk about tips. There are no fewer than 50 different tips that you can use on your cue (and I'm sure that the actual number is MUCH higher), so how are you going to choose....The choice of a tip is a personal thing and it stems from several factors, some of which is a fundamental understanding of the Tip itself.

When it comes to tips that are used in "standard play" there are two broad "tip types" which I will class as "regular" and "layered". Each class can be further broken down into four major categories: Cow Hide, Pig Skin, Boar Hide, or Water Buffalo Hide (I'm sure that there may be the odd exotic material or two used in tips slated for "standard play", but I'll choose to ignore them due to their lack of wide usage)*. These can further be broken down into "degrees of hardness" usually represented by the general terms of SOFT, MEDIUM, and HARD. Of course, as always, there are exceptions to the rule when it comes to Tip Manufacturer's classifications as you will see in the table below.

I have also included some new data that may help those of you who like to know PRECISELY how hard (or soft) a specific tip is. This new data is from Mueller Recreational Products and while I don't fully understand the method that they used to derive the data, they are a highly reputable reseller of billiard products (among other things) and do lot's of billiard repair work so I would tend to believe that their testing methods are sound.

The data that they provide categorizes tips into 5 scaled categories which are:

  1. Soft -- 60-65 (Mueller Hardness Index or "MHI")

  2. Medium -- 66-75 "MHI"

  3. Medium-Hard -- 76-80 "MHI"

  4. Hard -- 81-85 "MHI"

  5. Extra hard -- 86 and up "MHI"

Now frankly, I don't know how big a statistical sample they took when they tested each manufacturer's tips, but the data is interesting and for all of you hard-core data geeks (like me) it may be worthwhile reading and internalizing. Of course, as we all know, tips can, and often DO, change their characteristics after you play pool with them for a while, so you should consider all of the Hardness Data to be "accurate" when the tip is FIRST INSTALLED and not necessarily valid after you've been playing with it for a few months.

While Table 1 is not an "exhaustive" list of all possible tips available, it does give a pretty fair representation of the "most popular" tips used by players.

* Note: Composite Materials (like Phenolic, Linen, etc) are also used for "specialized" jump cue and break cue tips which will be covered separately and not as part of this "standard playing tip" discussion. See the Specialized Tips section below for some thoughts on this subject.

 
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Table 1 -- Widely used Tips for "Standard Play"

 
Brand Name Type Description Classifications
       
Le Professional (a.k.a. LePro) Regular Le Pro tips are an industry favorite crafted from vegetable tanned oak leather. The tip has a special protective coating to seal and preserve the leather until the cue is ready to play. None "officially" but considered by most to be a Medium to Hard tip (they're fairly inconsistent from tip to tip)

"MHI" - Medium-Hard: 78.2

Triangle

Regular

Triangle tips are a thick, firm tip crafted from a special chrome tanned leather. Triangle tips have a coarser grain and are recognized as a harder tip.

None "officially" but considered by most to be a Hard tip

"MHI" - Hard: 81.4

Elk Master

Regular

Elk Master tips are crafted from prime mineral tanned leather creating a tip that will wear well and hold its shape under the roughest use.

None "officially" but considered by most to be a Soft tip

"MHI" - Soft: 60.1

Triumph

Regular

Triumph tips are pressed and shaped from the finest vegetable tanned oak leather. Crafted in the French style, each Triumph tip has a red fiber backing to protect an ivory ferrule.

None "officially" but considered by most to be a Medium tip

"MHI" - Medium-Hard: 76.9

Blue Knight Regular Blue Knight tips are soft, economical, pressed and shaped leather tips. None "officially" but considered by most to be a Soft tip

"MHI" - Soft: 61.2

Royal Oak Regular Royal Oak tips are made from prime blends of oak tanned leather. None "officially" but considered by most to be a Medium tip

"MHI" - Medium: 66.5

Silver King Regular Silver King tips according to the manufacturer, are made from "specially treated" leather...whatever THAT means :-) None "officially" but considered by most to be a Soft tip

"MHI" - Soft: 60.3

Rocket Regular Rocket tips are made from genuine Water Buffalo. None "officially" but considered by most to be a Soft tip

"MHI" - Soft: 62.4

Sumo Regular Sumo tips are made from pure water buffalo hide. Medium-Hard

Hard

"MHI" data - M-H: 77.3, H: 82.0

Porper Ram Regular Porper Ram tips consist of synthetic polymers that are compressed into a uniform tip. The manufacturer claims that these tips won't mushroom and require very little grooming. Soft (S)

Medium (M)

Medium-Hard (M-H)

"MHI" data - S: 64.1, M: 71.5, M-H: 78.9

Blue Diamond Regular Blue diamond tips are made from hand-selected water buffalo hide infused with velvet-grade silicone and formed under 40,000 pounds of pressure to ensure the tips have a uniform density. None "officially" but considered by most to be a Medium tip

No "MHI" data available for these tips

Chandivert BB

Regular and Layered

Chandivert tips are imported from France, these tips are made from vegetable tanned leather in the traditional manner. Quality is assured by over 150 years of manufacturing experience.

Champion: Medium-Hard with a fiber backing

Crown: Hard

Eureka: Soft

Match: Medium

Rocky: Super-Hard

Super Royal: Medium

Laminate: Medium-Hard (Layered Tip)

No "MHI" data available for these tips

Moori

Layered

Moori tips are made from 10 layers of Pig skin and are far and away the most sought after Layered tip on the market for it's consistency and superior quality.

Personal Opinion (take it for what it's worth): These and the Moori III below are my personal favorites and are the only tips that I use on my normal playing shafts.

Slow (S) which is their version of a Soft tip

Medium (M)

Quick (Q) which is their version of a Hard tip

No "MHI" data available for these tips

Moori III

Layered

Moori III tips are made from 9 layers of Pig skin and are the latest generation of what is still considered by many (including myself) to be the best, most consistent tip on the market.

Slow (S) which is their version of a Soft tip

Medium (M)

Quick (Q) which is their version of a Hard tip

"MHI" data - S: 63.8, M: 74.2, Q: 82.7

Tiger Laminated

Layered

Tiger Laminated tips are laminated with the VACULAM™ process and made out of eleven layers of either pig skin or cowhide, depending on hardness.

Soft (S)

Medium (M)

Hard (H)

"MHI" data - S: 65.3, M: 74.5, H: 81.0

Tiger Dynamite

Layered

Tiger Dynamite multi-layer tips are made out of five layers of pig leather and treated to a specific hardness naturally laminated with the VACULAM™ process.

Medium-Hard (M-H)

"MHI" - M-H: 77.2

Tiger Everest

Layered

Tiger Everest multi-layer tips are made from 10 selected layers of pig leather laminated with the VACULAM™ process. According to the Manufacturer, "Each Everest Laminated Cue Tip is individually tested for consistency, hardness, and quality. This cue tip shapes like a hard tip, hits like a medium and has a control like a soft tip".

This is difficult to say based on Manufacturer's claims, but in using them I have personally found the tips to be in the Medium-Hard range

"MHI" - Medium: 75.1

Tiger Sniper

Layered

SNIPER multi-layer tips are made from boar hide that is tanned the old-fashioned way, underground. Treated slowly and without any chemicals then they are laminated with the VACULAM™. According to the Manufacturer, they are also treated via "APP" Advanced Pressurized Process, to make these cue tips adaptable to any player or game, regardless of style.

This is difficult to say based on Manufacturer's claims, and since I have no experience with them, I candidly don't know what to think :-)

"MHI" - Medium: 66.9

Talisman PRO

Layered

Talisman PRO tips are made with a varying number of separate layers of high quality, grade 'A' Pig Skin specially selected at the Tannery. They are laminated one on top of the other, creating uniform and consistent quality and response.

Soft (S)

Medium (M)

Medium-Hard (M-H)

Hard (H)

Extra Hard (X)

"MHI" data - S: 64.3, M: 73.9, M-H: 77.0, H: 81.4, X: 86.2

Talisman WB

Layered

Talisman WB tips are made with a varying number of separate layers of high quality, grade 'A' Water Buffalo hide, specially selected at the Tannery.  They are laminated one on top of the other, creating uniform and consistent quality and response.

Medium (M)

Hard (H)

"MHI" data - M: 74.7, H: 83.2

Stratos Layered Stratos tips have twelve laminated layers of boar hide, which according to the manufacturer, provide consistency as well as excellent playability. Soft (S)

Medium (M)

Hard (H)

Extra Hard (X)

"MHI" data - S: 65.8, M: 75.5, H: 81.1, X: 87.3

Tsunami Layered Tsunami tips are made from twelve laminated layers of water buffalo. Medium (M)

Hard (H)

"MHI" data - M: 75.8, H: 82.4

Porper Majestic Layered Porper Majestic tips are multi-layered split calfskin bonded with a specially formulated agent. Medium-Hard (M-H)

"MHI" - M-H: 77.4

Porper Wild Boar Layered Porper Wild Boar tips are made from eleven layers of boar hide, with each layer chosen through a careful selection process. The manufacturer claims that each tip has a consistent hardness throughout. Medium-Hard (M-H)

"MHI" - M-H: 77.8

Porper Water Buffalo Layered Porper Water Buffalo tips are made of twelve laminated layers of water buffalo hide. Medium-Hard (M-H)

No "MHI" data available for these tips

Stingray Layered Stingray tips are made from eleven layers of 2mm thick cold weather pig skin. The density of the layers is high which gives the tips a solid feeling or hit. The manufacturer claims that these tips are Medium-Hard but the data below suggests that they should actually be rated Hard

"MHI" - H: 83.2

 

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Some simple criteria to help you choose -- So now that you've looked at the myriad of choices that there are, what now? Well, the first thing to do is to take a look at some criteria to help you to narrow down the possibilities:

  1. What is your particular style of play?
    1. Do you use lot's of English (side-spin)?
    2. Do you mostly use Center-Ball hits?
    3. Do you use lot's of Draw and Follow?
    4. Do you (typically) use a Hard/Fast stroke?
    5. Do you (typically) use a Soft/Slow stroke?
  2. Do you typically play on Slow or Fast cloth?
  3. Do you LIKE to experiment, or are you resistant to change?
  4. How much is TOO MUCH to spend on a tip?

 

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Generalizing tip performance -- Candidly, if there was a simple formula that I could give you that would "spit out" the right tip based on the simple questions above, I would be rich and be a consultant to all the Tip Manufactures on the planet, but it's just not that objective! It really all boils out to the ever elusive "FEEL" issue, and what feels good to one player, doesn't necessarily feel good to the next player.

I can however try to help by describing some basic "truths" about tips, and I hope you don't feel that I'm too far out on a limb  when I use the following statements:

  1. Softer tips will let you spin the cue ball with greater ease than Harder tips given the same stroke

  2. A well chalked Hard tip will still miscue more often than a well chalked Soft tip -- "I bet this generalization will be hotly contested by some people reading this" :-)

  3. Softer tips generally lose their shape faster than Harder tips (more mushrooming)

  4. Layered tips "seem" to apply English (side-spin), Draw and Follow more easily than Non-Layered tips of the same hardness

  5. Softer tips "feel softer"...duh!. Conversely, Harder tips "feel harder"...double duh!

 

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Recommendations, but the choice is yours! -- It is my personal opinion that Layered tips perform better than Regular tips of the same general "hardness level" when it comes to "standard play" especially if your style of play includes the use of any form of SIDE SPIN (English). Layered tips also outperform regular tips when it comes to applying FOLLOW and DRAW as well, and for me, are less prone to miscuing when applying extreme spin (or when I've done a less than stellar job of applying chalk to my tip). They also appear from my experience and the experience of the many players whose tips I've replaced, to have more "consistency" from tip to tip and stay "groomed" longer with far less mushrooming than all the other types of "regular" tips I've ever used. Of course, even layered tips are "not all created equal" with some of them able to perform better over the long haul than others, but again, this along with all the other statements I've made are more "subjective" than "objective", and candidly, I don't know of any definitive scientific study ever done on the subject.

So now what???? Well, if you can afford the time and the expense, the best method to find the "perfect tip" for yourself is to perform some experiments and I would suggest that you try a variety of tips before you decide on which one works best for you and your style of play. Of course, this approach is "dangerous" to your game and can lead to your game being "thrown off" for a while because you will need to "adjust" to the different performance characteristics of the new tip

What I typically suggest to people that have 2 shafts (preferably identical) with their favorite playing cue, is that they use one shaft as an EXPERIMENTAL TIP PLATFORM so that they can try a variety of tips and perform an active comparison with their "standard playing tip". Give yourself and the new tip an opportunity to "become friends" for a while before you decide whether it's better or worse than your standard tip. To minimize the experimentation (and the expense) I suggest that you see how many of your buddies are using the tip you're interested in and see if you can play a rack or two with their cue (you better be a REALLY GOOD FRIEND or the answer will be NO...loaning someone your cue is in some sense like letting them drive your car...you REALLY need to trust the person) to see if it's "way off base" or not.

I would suggest that you start off with the tip you "think" will be the best using your original tip as a baseline...if the tip you're currently playing with is layered, it's unlikely that you'd want to go back to a regular tip, so don't waste your time. If you're using a Medium tip and are happy with the feel, don't waste your time going to a Harder tip unless you're looking to change your definition of "feel", you'll be better off trying a different Brand with Medium hardness....get the point?!

Finally, no matter what tip you choose in the long-run, if it isn't well maintained, your game will suffer This text is currently hidden (see my page on Tip Maintenance).

As one last general rule of thumb...do yourself a favor and buy and install (or have it installed) the VERY BEST tip that you can afford (or at least are willing to spend). There is nothing worse in my opinion than someone who chooses to put a $.50 tip on a $400 cue JUST BECAUSE they think that spending a few extra dollars on something so "trivial" as the TIP is stupid! This is one area that will ABSOLUTELY improve your game and once you "hone in" on the tip that works best for you (including that $.50 tip...ugh!) stick with it and stop experimenting.

 

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Specialized Tips -- work in progress
 
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