| |
|
-------- |
| |
|
No Matter what you think about anything
else that you read on this web site (or anywhere else for that
matter), the simple truth is that without a decent tip on your
shaft, you might just as well be playing with a Mop Handle!
Matter of fact, a Mop Handle with a decent tip glued to the
end of it will probably play better than a $1000 custom cue
with a bad tip!*
*Note -- Even a very expensive tip that is
not properly maintained is still a "bad tip", so please don't
think that an expensive but "poorly maintained" tip is
acceptable...IT IS NOT!
For
more information on the care and maintenance of tips, please
refer to the
Tip Maintenance and Replacement section of this web
site. |
| |
|
-------- |
| |
|
Six
questions to ask yourself about how you're playing -- Players
are probably more passionate AND opinionated on the subject of the
"BEST TIP TO USE" than on any other topic with respect to their cues, and
frankly, I'm no exception.
So, that being said, let's start off with a
basic assumption -- EVERY PLAYER that I've ever met is
constantly on the look-out for something that will give them a
competitive "edge" when they're shooting. Invariably, they are
always evaluating their equipment by asking something
analogous to the following six questions:
-
Am I happy with the performance of my
cue?
-
Am I miscuing more than I think I should
?
-
Am I applying DRAW the way I want to?
-
Am I applying FOLLOW the way I want to?
-
Am I applying ENGLISH (side-spin) the way
I want to?
-
Does the hit "FEEL" the way I want it to?
If the above questions strike you as subjective
and easy to answer but difficult to quantify, THEY ARE! But that being said,
if all other factors are equal (you didn't suddenly develop (or lose) a "killer
stroke" or "laser vision", you've haven't changed your shaft, butt,
or weight and balance point), then RESHAPING or CHANGING your tip will
probably show immediate and/or often significant changes to your responses to the above questions. Of course, these could be good changes or bad changes, so
"Experimenter Beware"!! |
| |
|
back to the top |
| |
| |
|
Lots of Choices --
Well, with ALL THAT out of the way, let's talk about tips. There are no
fewer than 50 different tips that you can use on your cue (and I'm sure that
the actual number is MUCH higher), so how are you going to choose....The
choice of a tip is a personal thing and it stems from several factors, some
of which is a fundamental understanding of the Tip itself.
When it comes to tips that are used in "standard play" there are two broad
"tip types" which I will class as "regular" and "layered". Each class can be
further broken down into four major categories: Cow Hide, Pig Skin, Boar Hide, or Water Buffalo Hide
(I'm sure that there may be the odd exotic material or two used in tips
slated for "standard play", but I'll choose to ignore them due to their lack
of wide usage)*. These can further be broken down into "degrees of hardness"
usually represented by the general terms of SOFT, MEDIUM, and HARD. Of
course, as always, there are exceptions to the rule when it comes to Tip
Manufacturer's classifications as you will see in the table below.
I have also included some new data that may help those of
you who like to know PRECISELY how hard (or soft) a specific tip is. This
new data is from Mueller Recreational Products and while I don't fully
understand the method that they used to derive the data, they are a highly
reputable reseller of billiard products (among other things) and do lot's of
billiard repair work so I would tend to believe that their testing methods
are sound.
The data that they provide categorizes tips into 5 scaled
categories which are:
-
Soft -- 60-65 (Mueller Hardness Index or "MHI")
-
Medium -- 66-75 "MHI"
-
Medium-Hard -- 76-80 "MHI"
-
Hard -- 81-85 "MHI"
-
Extra hard -- 86 and up "MHI"
Now frankly, I don't know how big a statistical sample
they took when they tested each manufacturer's tips, but the data is
interesting and for all of you hard-core data geeks (like me) it may be
worthwhile reading and internalizing. Of course, as we all know, tips can,
and often DO, change their characteristics after you play pool with them for
a while, so you should consider all of the Hardness Data to be "accurate"
when the tip is FIRST INSTALLED and not necessarily valid after you've been
playing with it for a few months.
While Table 1 is not an "exhaustive" list of all
possible tips available, it does give a pretty fair representation of the
"most popular" tips used by players.
* Note: Composite Materials (like Phenolic, Linen, etc)
are also used for "specialized" jump cue and break cue tips which
will be covered separately and not as part of this "standard playing tip"
discussion. See the Specialized Tips
section below for some thoughts on this subject.
|
| |
|
back to the top |
| |
| |
|
Table 1 -- Widely
used Tips for "Standard Play" |
| |
| Brand Name |
Type |
Description |
Classifications |
| |
|
|
|
| Le Professional (a.k.a.
LePro) |
Regular |
Le Pro tips are an industry favorite crafted from vegetable tanned oak
leather. The tip has a special protective coating to seal and preserve
the leather until the cue is ready to play. |
None "officially" but considered by most to be a Medium to Hard tip
(they're fairly inconsistent from tip to tip)
"MHI" - Medium-Hard: 78.2 |
|
Triangle |
Regular |
Triangle tips are a thick, firm tip crafted from a special chrome tanned
leather. Triangle tips have a coarser grain and are recognized as a
harder tip. |
None "officially" but considered by most
to be a Hard tip
"MHI" - Hard: 81.4 |
|
Elk Master |
Regular |
Elk Master tips are crafted from prime mineral tanned leather creating a
tip that will wear well and hold its shape under the roughest use. |
None "officially" but considered by most
to be a Soft tip
"MHI" - Soft: 60.1 |
|
Triumph |
Regular |
Triumph tips are pressed and shaped from the finest vegetable tanned oak
leather. Crafted in the French style, each Triumph tip has a red fiber
backing to protect an ivory ferrule. |
None "officially" but considered by most
to be a Medium tip
"MHI" - Medium-Hard: 76.9 |
|
Blue Knight |
Regular |
Blue Knight tips are soft, economical, pressed and shaped
leather tips. |
None "officially" but considered by most to be a Soft tip
"MHI" - Soft: 61.2 |
|
Royal Oak |
Regular |
Royal Oak tips are made from prime blends of oak tanned
leather. |
None "officially" but considered by most to be a Medium tip
"MHI" - Medium: 66.5 |
|
Silver King |
Regular |
Silver King tips according to the manufacturer, are made
from "specially treated" leather...whatever THAT means :-) |
None "officially" but considered by most to be a Soft tip
"MHI" - Soft: 60.3 |
|
Rocket |
Regular |
Rocket tips are made from genuine Water Buffalo. |
None "officially" but considered by most to be a Soft tip
"MHI" - Soft: 62.4 |
|
Sumo |
Regular |
Sumo tips are made from pure water buffalo hide. |
Medium-Hard Hard
"MHI" data - M-H: 77.3, H: 82.0 |
|
Porper Ram |
Regular |
Porper Ram tips consist of synthetic polymers
that are compressed into a uniform tip. The manufacturer claims that
these tips won't mushroom and require very little grooming. |
Soft (S) Medium (M)
Medium-Hard (M-H)
"MHI" data - S: 64.1, M: 71.5, M-H:
78.9 |
|
Blue Diamond |
Regular |
Blue diamond tips are made from hand-selected water
buffalo hide infused with velvet-grade silicone and formed under 40,000
pounds of pressure to ensure the tips have a uniform density. |
None "officially" but considered by most to be a Medium tip
No "MHI" data available for these tips |
|
Chandivert BB |
Regular and Layered |
Chandivert tips are imported from France, these tips are made from
vegetable tanned leather in the traditional manner. Quality is assured
by over 150 years of manufacturing experience. |
Champion: Medium-Hard with a fiber
backing
Crown: Hard
Eureka: Soft
Match: Medium
Rocky: Super-Hard
Super Royal: Medium
Laminate: Medium-Hard (Layered Tip)
No "MHI" data available for these tips |
|
Moori |
Layered |
Moori tips are made from 10 layers of Pig skin and are far and away the
most sought after Layered tip on the market for it's consistency and
superior quality.
Personal Opinion (take it for what it's worth): These and the Moori III
below are my personal favorites and are the only tips that I use on
my normal playing shafts. |
Slow (S) which is their version of a Soft
tip Medium (M)
Quick (Q) which is their version of a Hard tip
No "MHI" data available for these tips |
|
Moori III |
Layered |
Moori III tips are made from 9 layers of Pig skin and are the
latest generation of what is still considered by many (including myself)
to be the best, most consistent tip on the market. |
Slow (S) which is their version of a Soft
tip Medium (M)
Quick (Q) which is their version of a Hard tip
"MHI" data - S: 63.8, M: 74.2, Q: 82.7 |
|
Tiger Laminated |
Layered |
Tiger Laminated tips are laminated with the VACULAM™ process and made
out of eleven layers of either pig skin or cowhide, depending on
hardness. |
Soft (S)
Medium (M) Hard (H)
"MHI" data - S: 65.3, M: 74.5, H: 81.0 |
|
Tiger Dynamite |
Layered |
Tiger Dynamite multi-layer tips are made out of five layers of pig
leather and treated to a specific hardness naturally laminated with the
VACULAM™ process. |
Medium-Hard (M-H)
"MHI" - M-H: 77.2 |
|
Tiger Everest |
Layered |
Tiger Everest multi-layer tips are made from 10 selected layers of pig
leather laminated with the VACULAM™ process. According to the
Manufacturer, "Each Everest Laminated Cue Tip is individually tested for
consistency, hardness, and quality. This cue tip shapes like a hard tip,
hits like a medium and has a control like a soft tip". |
This is difficult to say based on
Manufacturer's claims, but in using them I have personally found the
tips to be in the Medium-Hard range
"MHI" - Medium: 75.1 |
|
Tiger Sniper |
Layered |
SNIPER multi-layer tips are made from boar hide that is tanned the
old-fashioned way, underground. Treated slowly and without any chemicals
then they are laminated with the VACULAM™. According to the
Manufacturer, they are also treated via "APP" Advanced Pressurized
Process, to make these cue tips adaptable to any player or game,
regardless of style. |
This is difficult to say based on
Manufacturer's claims, and since I have no experience with them, I
candidly don't know what to think :-)
"MHI" - Medium: 66.9 |
|
Talisman PRO |
Layered |
Talisman PRO tips are made with a varying number of separate layers of
high quality, grade 'A' Pig Skin specially selected at the Tannery. They
are laminated one on top of the other, creating uniform and consistent
quality and response. |
Soft (S)
Medium (M)
Medium-Hard (M-H)
Hard (H)
Extra Hard (X)
"MHI" data - S: 64.3, M: 73.9, M-H: 77.0,
H: 81.4, X: 86.2 |
|
Talisman WB |
Layered |
Talisman WB tips are made with a varying number of separate layers of
high quality, grade 'A' Water Buffalo hide, specially selected at the
Tannery. They are laminated one on top of the other, creating
uniform and consistent quality and response. |
Medium (M)
Hard (H)
"MHI" data - M: 74.7, H: 83.2 |
|
Stratos |
Layered |
Stratos tips have twelve laminated layers of boar hide,
which according to the manufacturer, provide consistency as well as
excellent playability. |
Soft (S) Medium (M)
Hard (H)
Extra Hard (X)
"MHI" data - S: 65.8, M: 75.5, H:
81.1, X: 87.3 |
|
Tsunami |
Layered |
Tsunami tips are made from twelve laminated layers of
water buffalo. |
Medium (M) Hard (H)
"MHI" data - M: 75.8, H: 82.4 |
|
Porper Majestic |
Layered |
Porper Majestic tips are multi-layered split calfskin
bonded with a specially formulated agent. |
Medium-Hard (M-H)
"MHI" - M-H: 77.4 |
|
Porper Wild Boar |
Layered |
Porper Wild Boar tips are made from eleven layers of boar
hide, with each layer chosen through a careful selection process. The
manufacturer claims that each tip has a consistent hardness throughout. |
Medium-Hard (M-H)
"MHI" - M-H: 77.8 |
|
Porper Water Buffalo |
Layered |
Porper Water Buffalo tips are made of twelve laminated
layers of water buffalo hide. |
Medium-Hard (M-H)
No "MHI" data available for these tips |
|
Stingray |
Layered |
Stingray tips are made from eleven layers of 2mm thick
cold weather pig skin. The density of the layers is high which gives the
tips a solid feeling or hit. |
The manufacturer claims that these tips are Medium-Hard
but the data below suggests that they should actually be rated Hard
"MHI" - H: 83.2 |
|
|
|
back to the
top |
| |
| |
|
Some simple
criteria to help you choose -- So now that you've looked at
the myriad of choices that there are, what now? Well, the first thing
to do is to take a look at some criteria to help you to narrow down
the possibilities: |
- What is your particular style of play?
- Do you use lot's of English (side-spin)?
- Do you mostly use Center-Ball hits?
- Do you use lot's of Draw and Follow?
- Do you (typically) use a Hard/Fast stroke?
- Do you (typically) use a Soft/Slow stroke?
- Do you typically play on Slow or Fast cloth?
- Do you LIKE to experiment, or are you resistant to change?
- How much is TOO MUCH to spend on a tip?
|
|
|
|
back to the
top |
| |
| |
|
Generalizing tip performance -- Candidly, if there was a
simple formula that I could give you that would "spit out" the right
tip based on the simple questions above, I would be rich and be a
consultant to all the Tip Manufactures on the planet, but it's just
not that objective! It really all boils out to the ever elusive "FEEL"
issue, and what feels good to one player, doesn't necessarily feel
good to the next player.
I can however try to help by describing some basic "truths" about
tips, and I hope you don't feel that I'm too far out on a limb when I
use the following statements:
-
Softer tips will let you spin the cue ball with
greater ease than Harder tips given the same stroke
-
A well chalked Hard tip will still miscue more
often than a well chalked Soft tip -- "I bet this generalization
will be hotly contested by some people reading this" :-)
-
Softer tips generally lose their shape faster than Harder tips
(more mushrooming)
-
Layered tips "seem" to apply English (side-spin),
Draw and Follow more easily than Non-Layered tips of the same
hardness
-
Softer tips "feel softer"...duh!.
Conversely,
Harder tips "feel harder"...double duh!
|
|
|
|
back to the
top |
| |
| |
|
Recommendations, but
the choice is yours! -- It is my personal opinion that Layered tips perform
better than Regular tips of the same general "hardness level" when it comes
to "standard play" especially if your style of play includes the use of any
form of SIDE SPIN (English). Layered tips also outperform regular tips when
it comes to applying FOLLOW and DRAW as well, and for me, are less prone to
miscuing when applying extreme spin (or when I've done a less than stellar
job of applying chalk to my tip). They also appear from my experience and
the experience of the many players whose tips I've replaced, to have more
"consistency" from tip to tip and stay "groomed" longer with far less
mushrooming than all the other types of "regular" tips I've ever used. Of
course, even layered tips are "not all created equal" with some of them able
to perform better over the long haul than others, but again, this along with
all the other statements I've made are more "subjective" than "objective",
and candidly, I don't know of any definitive scientific study ever done on
the subject.
So now what???? Well, if you can afford the time and the expense,
the best method to find the "perfect tip" for yourself is to perform some
experiments and I would suggest that you try a variety of tips before you
decide on which one works best for you and your style of play. Of course,
this approach is "dangerous" to your game and can lead to your game being
"thrown off" for a while because you will need to "adjust" to the different
performance characteristics of the new tip
What I typically suggest to people that
have 2 shafts (preferably identical) with their favorite
playing cue, is that they use one shaft as an EXPERIMENTAL TIP
PLATFORM so that they can try a variety of tips and perform an
active comparison with their "standard playing tip". Give
yourself and the new tip an opportunity to "become friends"
for a while before you decide whether it's better or worse
than your standard tip. To minimize the experimentation (and
the expense) I suggest that you see how many of your buddies
are using the tip you're interested in and see if you can play
a rack or two with their cue (you better be a REALLY GOOD
FRIEND or the answer will be NO...loaning someone your cue is
in some sense like letting them drive your car...you REALLY
need to trust the person) to see if it's "way off base" or
not.
I would suggest that you start off with the tip you
"think" will be the best using your original tip as a baseline...if the tip
you're currently playing with is layered, it's unlikely that you'd want to
go back to a regular tip, so don't waste your time. If you're using a Medium
tip and are happy with the feel, don't waste your time going to a Harder tip
unless you're looking to change your definition of "feel", you'll be better
off trying a different Brand with Medium hardness....get the point?!
Finally, no matter what tip you choose in the long-run, if it isn't well
maintained, your game will suffer
This text is currently hidden (see my page on
Tip Maintenance).
As one last general rule of thumb...do yourself a favor
and buy and install (or have it installed) the VERY BEST tip that you can
afford (or at least are willing to spend). There is nothing worse in my opinion
than someone who chooses to put a $.50 tip on a $400 cue JUST BECAUSE they
think that spending a few extra dollars on something so "trivial" as the TIP
is stupid! This is one area that will ABSOLUTELY improve your game and once
you "hone in" on the tip that works best for you (including that $.50
tip...ugh!) stick with it and stop experimenting.
|
|
|
|
back to the top |
| |
| |
| Specialized Tips --
work in progress |
| |
|
back to the top |
| |
| |
|
©2004-2008 Wolfbite Cue Solutions - All Rights Reserved |