Nine Cue "Myths" --- I'd like to start this section by taking a couple of minutes to debunk some popular "Myths":

1. Expensive cues inherently play better than more inexpensive cues ---This is nonsense! The only thing you can automatically say about an expensive cue without understanding how it was made is that it WILL cost you MORE! Each cue maker adds their own value to the cue that they produce and the ultimate price has a lot to do with WHO, WHAT, WHERE, WHEN, and HOW which doesn't necessarily translate into a better (or worse) playing cue. Understanding all of the parameters that makes a specific cue more expensive will help you determine if it's worth the extra expense.

2. Cues from low-volume cue makers are inherently better than cues from high-volume Manufacturers --- This is another one of those beliefs that everyone HOPES is true, but it isn't. I've seen very sloppy, poorly made cues from both high-volume producers AND small shops. Candidly, a high-volume producer (assuming it's one of the MAJOR producers of fine cues) will have a consistency and workmanship (due to their uniform production techniques and high-end production machines) that you will be hard to find fault with. However, a quality low-volume cue maker builds each of their cues one at a time (so to speak), and are focused on working with their customer. Most low-volume cue makers have incredible passion for their craft and for the game itself and you would be hard-pressed to find anyone who doesn't feel special when they play with a hand-crafted cue that was made by someone "with a name" instead of a face-less company (even if some CNC machinery was used).

3. Forearm points make a difference in the way a cue plays --- I will put this one to bed by saying that unless the points are full-splice with poor glue joints (which would be detrimental to the playability of the cue), points only serve 2 purposes. One is to adjust the balance point somewhat (mostly in the case of full-splice, although the balance of a cue can be affected by large heavy wood short-splice points in lighter forearm wood), and the other is purely cosmetic....a throwback to a day when ALL cues were Single Piece cues with full-splices. I will contend that not everyone believes that short-splice points are "value-less" when it come to the overall integrity of a cue. Some cue makers (although certainly not all) believe that short-splice cues can add to the structural stability of the cue, but like most things about cues, the opinions vary widely, so I'll stick to my statement that Points make NO difference in the way a cue plays!

4. Inlays help (or hurt) the way a cue plays --- Nope. Unless the inlays are so "ugly" or "ornate" that you stay focused on them instead of the balls on the table, they make no difference except for the "wow" or "ugh" factor that occurs when someone sees them :-)

5. A two piece cue must "feel" like a one-piece cue in order for it to be considered good --- This statement is another throwback to a bygone age when people believed that the ultimate "cue experience" occurred with a one piece cue (of course there are still plenty of people who would "fight to the death" over this belief). It is certainly true that the characteristics of the hit and feel of the cue change as you add material (joint pins, joint collars, connecting pins, etc.) in the path of the "shock wave" but candidly that's OK with me! Unless you really like your cue weight and balance to be purely dictated by the wood itself (and maybe a weight bolt under the bumper) you will be limited in your choices if you stick with this rigid criteria. Read the Cue Anatomy 101 section to get a better feel for the different characteristics that each joint type and piece of material has. These characteristics can either enhance the experience or diminish it, but there is NOTHING INHERENTLY SACRED about  one piece cues other than they're the ones that we typically "get use to" BEFORE we experience the hit and feel of a two-piece cue.

6. (Insert one or more of the following: joint, ferrule, wood, cue maker, etc.) is the "best" --- Beauty as well as "hit" and "feel" are in the eye, hand, and HEAD of the beholder. If there was ONE BEST anything wouldn't everyone be using it? No-one would want to be the cue maker using the inferior whatever. All cue makers try to differentiate themselves with something that they believe provides either a better value or better performance (or both). Candidly, the jury is out on most of the stuff they come up with, but the choices sure do make life and cue selection interesting!

7. Since a lot of cues are 58" long (or 19 oz.) that must be the "optimal" length (weight)  --- Nope, wrong again! The whole 58/19 combo is a way for cue makers to start with a "baseline". Years ago the "standard" was shorter/heavier cues, and now a days, I'm starting to see many of my customers (myself included) going to longer/lighter cues. Why? It's all about personal preference, but the cue makers have to focus on SOMETHING as their baseline and 58/19 is what a lot of them shoot for (pardon the pun). Of course most cue makers allow for some amount of weight adjustment in their standard butts (often +2 oz. to -1 oz.) but the only way to adjust the length (short of a full custom) is to add a longer or shorter shaft to their standard butt.

8. If a cue has an expensive tip on it it must be a good cue --- This one could be like putting a new paint job on a rusty car! I will grant you that a good tip will always play better than a bad one, but it won't make up for a cheaply made cue. Be wary of cheap cues with $10 tips on them...they will still play like a cheap cue so don't get sucked into the hype about the kind of tip it's got. Ask about all the other parameters that you've become aware of and determine whether the cue can meet the performance of the tip or whether you'd be better off using a mop handle.

9. Using your own cue will automatically make you play better --- This myth is about as true as believing that taking "sugar pills" will cure something or that the tooth fairy exists (heh, don't tell my kids about the tooth fairy!). A good cue will certainly help a player achieve a more consistent style of play and that will certainly be a benefit, but to believe that the tool makes the mechanic is foolish. It will certainly keep you ahead of all your friends who have to scramble to find the ONE house cue with a decent tip and no "S shaped" shaft.

The motivations behind wanting to own a personal cue (and what to look for!): --- People are motivated to buy a cue for a variety of reasons, but the individuals can be categorized in several general buckets. People who want to purchase cues are often looking at different things depending on the bucket that they're in. Of course, we all started at the beginning, and since it's evolutionary (each bucket encompasses all the one's in-front of it), read them all and see what bucket you've got your foot stuck in (well, at least I HOPE it's your foot!)

"First time" buyer ---  A first time buyer is usually the most vulnerable AND least knowledgeable person about cues. It's my goal to take plenty of time (and words) in removing some of the mystery out of their (maybe YOUR) quest. Usually the first time buyer is either tired of settling for a crooked house cue with a bad tip or is ready to get more serious about their game and is looking for some "consistency" in the cue that they use. Whatever the case, there are several things to keep in mind before you buy your first cue:

a. Stay within your budget! --- unless you've been playing for years and really know what you want, I'd avoid spending too much money on your first cue. Now that being said, I certainly wouldn't advise that you buy a $29.95 Taiwanese "special", but I would concentrate on finding a good quality Sneaky Pete in the $100 - $250 price range. Just because you can afford a $1000 cue doesn't mean that you should buy one "right out of the chute". Save the extra money for later when you really know what you like

b. So why a Sneaky Pete? --- candidly, they are usually the best value for the money, especially if they are made by a decent cue maker. They are "no-frills" (typically) and play closest to the way a REALLY GOOD house cue plays (which allows the player to adjust to their new cue quickly). They are prone to be more heavily weighted toward the handle which usually helps a beginner. They are also non-descript enough for a decent player to feel comfortable in playing with them just about anywhere without drawing undo attention to themselves OR their cue (nothing worse than someone eyeing your $1000 cue in a "$1.00 a beer" bar). The other factor is one of "long-term" interest in the game. Not everyone stays serious about the game and a good quality Sneaky Pete typically has an excellent resale value should the new baby, or girlfriend (or boyfriend) side-track you from your intention of being a "serious player". If you take care of a decent Sneaky Pete ESPECIALLY if it's from a well known cue maker, you will be able to sell it with a minimum loss or potentially turn it into a very fine break cue.

c. What about all the other alternatives? --- There are plenty of good manufactures who sell cues in the $100 to $250 price range. It has been my experience that these cues are "value priced" and try to provide a balance between performance and "being pretty". The reason I suggest the "quality Sneaky Pete" approach for  "the first cue" is that if you are at all serious about playing, you will grow tired of the "eye candy" on your "low-end" high-volume production cue and you will potentially out-grow it's performance even faster. When this happens, you will be stuck with a cue that has may not have a very high resale value and you'll have to turn it into an "eye candy" break cue. Of course, once you start to really get into trying to improve your break, you'll be faced with giving it away to one of the neighbor's kids. If you are going to go this alternative route try to minimize the eye candy and you'll save money and not sacrifice anything in terms of performance (all of the high-volume cues from a specific product line will all play about the same no matter how many iridescent inlays they have!).

d. Stick with the parameters  that you're already use to --- Don't experiment much with your first cue. Stick with what you know. If you've had a lot of opportunity to play with other people's cues so much the better, then you're probably ahead of the curve when it comes to what you like. However, if you're like a lot of first time cue buyers and have not used anything except a couple of house cues than I'd stick to what's been working for you to date. If you've been playing well with a 21 oz. house cue, then stick to a 21 oz. 2-piece cue. Changing to an 18 oz 2-piece will potentially be an unpleasant surprise for you. Remember, just because some guy you know is selling his really nice looking 18 oz., 60" long cue cheap, it is no excuse to screw up your game. Of course, you can eventually get use to anything (including shooting with a mop handle), but do you WANT to! If you're not sure what parameters work best for you, I would suggest that you stick with the basics and opt for a "generic" set of specs....it's hard to go too wrong if you use these to start with:

1. 19 oz. overall weight (+/- a bit).

2. 17.5" - 18.5" balance point from the end of the butt cap (not the end of the bumper).

3. 58" overall length (+/- a bit, but not including the bumper).

4. The shaft taper can vary from a very long 15" pro-taper, to a 10"-12" pro-taper, to a more conical taper (like a modified Euro taper or a House cue's rapid conical taper). Just remember that typically, the longer the pro-taper the "whippier" the shaft is (read the Cue Anatomy 101 section to get a better feel for the  variety of shaft tapers and their characteristics).

5. 12.8-13.2 mm ferrule (the material is almost immaterial for this level of cue (read the Cue Anatomy 101 section to get a better feel for the options).

6. The joint material and configuration are ALMOST immaterial for this level of cue as long the two pieces are snug and solid when screwed together. You might want to consider a cue with lots of wood to wood contact initially which might "feel" more like the hit you're use to with a house cue (read the Cue Anatomy 101 section to get a better feel for the  variety of joints and their characteristics).

e. Synthetic vs. Wood cues --- I'm sure that I'll get into trouble for my opinions here but what the heck, it comes from the heart, so take them for what they're worth. Stick to the "real deal"! I'm sure that companies like Cuetec make an excellent product, but I have a tough time going with "high-tech materials" when it comes to butts and shafts. I may be OK with some of the unusual materials used by cue makers in the search for the "perfect cue" but I certainly draw the line when it comes to high tech materials that are substitutes for wood. Call me crazy, or old fashioned, but fiberglass and graphite shafts just don't "feel right" to me. I guess if that's what you like, then you need to "go for it", but I find that a lot of people buy these things because they believe that the  alternatives are cost prohibitive OR they seem even worse (like those really cheap wood cues that come from Taiwan, or wherever). If you've got a tight budget, scan the internet, or Ebay or your local pool hall or even a pawn shop for a decent used cue which for me is always a better alternative to using one of those brightly colored, flashy, "synthetic wonders". I apologize to anyone who makes their living making these things or makes part of their income by being sponsored by one of the companies that sell these or to anyone who happens to REALLY LIKE the way they play....you folks must have taken a wrong turn on the "Information Super Highway" and gotten off on the wrong exit and wound up at the wrong website :-)

1. Check for cracks in the ferrule or joint  --- These problems spell real trouble that you might want to avoid. Unless you don't mind the extra expense of getting the cue repaired, WALK AWAY from one of these. Of course, if it's a really high-end cue (or rare, or has some documented provenance), it might be worth the expense to "save it" even if it was mistreated by it's previous owner. If you want to "save it" I would suggest that you bring it to a good cue repair person BEFORE you buy it to find out whether the repairs will be worth the extra time and money.

2. Check each cue component for "relative straightness" (you also want to do this for a new cue as well) --- Look for any warping in the shaft (or shafts) as well as in the butt of the cue. Remember, all shafts and butts are tapered, some with compound tapers, so "seeing daylight" beneath them on a flat table is not necessarily the sign of a  problem.

First, if possible, roll the cue pieces separately on a flat pool table and check for signs of warpage. Look at the light you see beneath the part as you roll it on the table. If the space that shows between the table and the shaft or butt changes SUBSTANTIALLY when it's rolling, there is a problem. Now before you all go crazy looking for the "perfect true rolling" shaft or butt I will tell you it is extremely rare in the case of shafts, that you will find one that rolls "dead true" Shafts are inherently "spindly" sticks of maple that are 28 to 31 inches long and the odds of getting one that's perfect are remote NO MATTER HOW MUCH CARE THE CUE MAKER PUT INTO MAKING IT.

Butts are somewhat different since they are far less "whippy" when put on the lathe and turned, not to mention that they are MUCH THICKER than shaft blanks. I'm always asked how much wobble is too much wobble....well my answer is "it depends". I don't like to see ANY imperfection when I'm rolling a butt. I always stay away from any butt that doesn't "look true" to the naked eye while rolling it. With shafts, it's somewhat less black and white. Some slight wobble in the center of the taper is OK, but it's hard to put  a "qualifier" on it. It is truly up to the player as to what they find acceptable. Now if I were you though,

I wouldn't make your tolerance level TOO RESTRICTIVE or you will NEVER buy a cue because as I've said enough times that hopefully it's registered with you; there are VERY FEW shafts that roll "dead true". If you find one, guard it with your life and put it in your Last Will and Testament so that you can pass it to your kids after you're gone (just tell them not to be surprised if it ISN'T still straight by the time they get it!).

3. Check the assembled cue for straightness --- If the individual components look "reasonable" then you need to attach the shaft and the butt and check it again. This will determine whether the joint face or joint pin has any issues. Again, the cue should roll true "within an acceptable tolerance level". If it doesn't, but the individual components rolled well, than the problem lies in the joint. Either the surfaces are not completely parallel to each other due to swelling or damage, or the pin on the butt side, or the bore in the shaft, is not centered or worse (the pin could be damaged or the shaft threads might have been stripped or cross-threaded. Unless the cue has some real intrinsic value or you get it for free, I'd walk away.

4. Check the shaft and butt for dents and dings and the overall quality of the finish --- Whether the cue is new or used, look it over carefully, but don't expect perfection because you won't find it! No matter how expensive a cue is or who the cue maker is I can guarantee you that if you look close enough you will find flaws. FORGET IT! As long as the workmanship is good and there are no blatant flaws (bad finish, loose components, deep scratches, misaligned parts, etc.), accept it for what it is and be thankful. Of course the more you spend the more "perfect" it needs to be...just don't hyperventilate if you see some small imperfection. If the shaft has some nicks or dents in it complain about them and get the price lowered. Then go to the Shaft Maintenance section and learn how to get rid of them and save yourself some money (just be careful!). :-)

5. All the rest --- Always try to buy from a reputable dealer or someone that you know. Strangers in a bar or a pool hall are usually the wrong people to buy cues from. If the cue or the deal seems to be "too good to be true" it probably is! There is always someone that will try to hustle you out of your money (whether "on the green" or in the parking lot). Many cues are stolen each day and know full well that if you come across a "great deal" and you don't know the source you may very well be in the middle of something that may in the long run cost you more than you initially realized. 'Nuff said!

1. CNC Machines --- Every high-volume manufacturer that I know of uses high-end CNC production machines to make their cues. Some low-volume cue makers have some level of CNC equipment as well. CNC equipment is very precise and can be dialed in such that each cue is produced "the same way" each and every time. This adds to the consistency from cue to cue and combined with Quality  and Process Control systems you will get a product that is second to none in it's overall appearance and repeatability of performance from cue to cue, not to mention higher profits for the company (after the machines are amortized of course).

When small-volume cue makers use CNC machines, they are primarily using them to increase their production and make more cues with less labor. This also makes their cues more consistent with less effort, although without the Quality and Process control systems in place, the consistency may be elusive. The more a cue maker (big or small) relies on this type of machinery, the more they are considering the speed with which they make cues and are either attempting to increase their production to meet the demand, or are trying to maximize their profit by minimizing the labor, neither of which are inherently bad....just the truth. No one ever goes this route to make their cues more "special or unique", instead, it's all about cost.

2. "Old World" techniques --- This is the exclusive domain of low-volume cue makers, either by necessity or by choice. Some of these low-volume cue makers would rather "eat a bug" than to go the CNC route because they feel that it compromises the "art of cue making", which obviously started long before CNC came along. I certainly applaud this thought and for me, there is something very special about a piece of "functional art" that was made by someone (or a small team of "someones") with their own sense of what the craft is all about. Now that being said, just because something is made "by hand" doesn't necessarily make it worth a damn. Having someone "whittle me a cue" out of a piece of maple might not be my "implement of choice" when it comes to playing pool (or any other billiard game for that matter). The cue maker STILL needs to know what they're doing to make a good cue and it takes years for someone to dial-in their techniques. Often cue makers have machinist or engineering backgrounds, or have been turning wood "forever", usually long before they got into turning wood on a machine lathe. Sometimes they just start playing lots of pool and repairing cues on the side and BOOM, they get the cue making bug. The ones that last are the ones that have repeat customers which usually means that they've figured out how to add value to the raw wood that they start with by either making their cues beautiful, or real "players" or hopefully BOTH. I will eventually write more about the specific "Old World" techniques that are used by many of these master craftsmen, but I'll save that for another time.

3. Finishes -- Most low-volume cue makers are limited in the types of finishes they can apply to their cues. Often, they cannot invest in state-of-the-art spray booths and therefore stick to using finishes on their cues that require more hand work to complete. The amount of sanding and buffing that is required to get a smooth high-gloss finish on their cues can take a tremendous amount of time and energy. The variety of the finishes they use can be pretty broad, with everything from polymerized Tung oil, to CA glue, to high-tech polyurethane, and a multitude of others. On the other hand, the high-volume producers usually use very high-tech fast drying finishes that can really look incredible and these finishes when done properly will probably outlast all of us. Now just to be clear, the low-volume cue makers do not necessarily produce cues with inferior finishes, it just usually takes them more time and energy to make their cues beautiful (and that usually equates to more money that you will need to spend).

4. Standard Designs vs. Unique Designs --- Most high-volume manufacturers have "special edition" or "limited edition" runs, but they are the exception to the rule. For the most part these manufacturers have "standard product lines", and 99% of all of their volume is based on these lines. They can, for a price, customize one of their standard cues to fit the desires of a certain customer, but it will cost you both in dollars and time. Their special and limited editions often are sold at high premiums and are highly prized by people who collect cues from the specific manufacturer. On the other hand, low-volume cue makers rarely have "standard designs" that they sell, rather they often pick the woods and the style as they see fit at the time they begin to design a cue. Often, they work closely with the end-user or dealer and design the cue with them in mind, selecting the materials that best suit the weight and balance criteria desired by the  customer along with the performance and esthetic characteristics that are desired. These craftsmen realize that they cater to a different set of customers than the high-volume guys do. They realize that some people are looking for cues that are as unique as they are and want something that makes a statement about who they.

5. Availability --- Most cues that are produced by high-volume manufacturers are "off the shelf" and there are plenty of stores on the Internet, or locally where you can find the cue that you are looking for. It's a bit more challenging to find the cue you're looking for from a low-volume cue maker. Most often, the low-volume cue maker has a backlog that they're working through. They supply dealers and individual end-users often on a first come, first serve basis and often don't have any cues "laying around" waiting for the buyer to "scoop up". Again, if they have the ability to build up a small inventory of cues, they can be found at dealer shops (either locally or on the Internet) or occasionally on the cue makers own website. When it comes to ordering something special (whether from a small-volume cue maker or a high-volume cue maker) expect it to take months and sometimes YEARS to get your order filled. Along with the wait, expect to drop 30% to 50% for a deposit (sometimes non-refundable) for the privilege "to wait in line". There is of course the secondary market which is chock-full of people selling their cues after they've finished with them. Sometimes real bargains can be had, other times it's "buyer beware". It's all about supply and demand, so do your homework and ask questions.

6. Price and Specs --- Whether new or pre-owned, high-volume or low-volume, prices are all over the map. cues can range from next to nothing to thousands of dollars, and since you already know what you like, and you saved money on your first cue, you might want to consider splurging on THIS one. As with your first cue, stay within your predetermined budget, but now that you've gotten an appreciation for the game and the cue makers art AND the performance that you want, you need to take a look at the specs of each cue as closely as you look at the inlays and the price.

b. The "right look AND feel" --- OK, so you found the "look" that you want, and you've narrowed it down to maybe ten different cues (or a couple of cue makers) that MIGHT make you happy. The biggest challenge at this point is to determine whether the cues that you're looking at have the right playing characteristics that you're looking for.

When it comes to high-volume cues, you can expect that a low-end cue in the same product line will play pretty much the way a high-end one will. The construction techniques, materials and balance point (associated with a given weight) will all be pretty much the same, so try to find someone (or  a local store with a practice table) with a cue in the same product family and weight (or maybe they even have the exact one that you've been obsessing over) and see if it "feels right". If it doesn't, DON'T BUY IT! I know that a player can get use to ANYTHING, but this is your UPGRADE cue so you don't want to settle.

It's a bit more of a gamble with a low-volume cue maker's cues. You may not have an opportunity to find one locally (either via another player OR a local shop), so you need to do your homework (again!). It may be useful to contact the cue maker or a dealer that represents the cue maker to get more of an idea as to how their cues play. Once again, you need to be conscience of the fact that "hit and feel" are HIGHLY SUBJECTIVE parameters and your experience may differ from the experience of the person who is giving you THEIR VIEW. Often, you can find representative examples of a cue makers work all over the Internet, from Ebay to specialized searches on Google or Yahoo (or any one of the hundred of other search engines available). Don't be afraid to ask questions! It's your money and therefore you should try to understand what your getting for it. In the Cue Anatomy 101 and Length, Weight and Balance sections on this site I go into more details about specifics and I suggest that you use the information contained there as a baseline to ask the right questions and make the right choices.

Remember, there is NO ONE RIGHT CHOICE, and a lot of it is in the "head" of the player and not the cue (although it's NOT ALL in your head!). I guarantee that some cues DO play and look better than others, but you and I may disagree as to  which ones they are. :-)

"Pool cue junkie" --- Candidly, I fall somewhere between this category and the next. I guess I'm of the opinion that a person can NEVER have too many cues (just don't tell my wife I said that!). I am always searching for the next "great cue", and the next "great cue maker", and I truly enjoy playing with each and every cue that I personally own (well, OK, maybe I'm FIRMLY planted in this bucket!). Each cue from a specific manufacturers product line has a unique quality about it and that is especially true when it comes to small-volume cue makers. I personally prefer the subtle (and not so subtle) differences between small-volume cue makers and I really enjoy how much of their "heart" they put into the cues that they make. Most of these cue makers could probably make more money as machinists working for someone else making things other than cues, yet they don't. For a lot of them, it's all about the passion first, and paying the bills second (although in today's economy, paying the bills is becoming more important to them than it once was).

a. Searching for the "Holy Grail" --- When you recognize that you're a pool cue junkie you realize that you are forever on a quest for the ultimate cue that will lead to the ultimate pool playing experience (I'm sure that the same applies to carom and snooker cue junkies with respect to their games of choice as well). We look at cues as "functional art", but not quite the same way a collector or a "next cue" person looks at it. We are perpetual experimenters and are drawn to our next acquisition not only by it's playability, but by it's beauty and elegance as well. We differ from pure collectors because we cannot stand having a cue sit idle and not be used the way the cue maker intended. We know that every time we take it to a pool hall there is a potential of adding a dent or a ding to it and thus diminish it's resale value, but we can't help ourselves from using them....that's actually the REASON that we bought them in the first place!

Most of us "junkies" have cues from several different cue makers with a variety of weights and balance points as well as joint configurations and shaft tapers...that's what the experimentation side of it is all about.  Since this addiction usually lasts a long time, you will begin to develop some biases as you're arsenal (not collection!) grows. You will probably begin to hone in on a narrower range of weights and balances and begin to focus more on the tonal quality of the woods, the joints and ferrules, and of course the shaft lengths and tapers. You will certainly zero in on the range of "hit and feel" that you like in a cue (although you may, like me, enjoy a variety of different "hits and feels" depending on the game you're playing or the type of table you're playing on). If you don't have unlimited funds or space, you will over time begin to cull the early or unsuccessful experiments from the arsenal that you've built (of course it's rare for a true cue junkie to give one up without substituting a new one in it's place).

"The Collector" --- This final category is one that I won't really dwell on because if you're a collector, you already know more about what you're interested in than I do.

The motivations of a true collector are to find rare and beautiful cues that can be admired and appreciated but not necessarily played. Some collectors do play their collectable cues but only very carefully and I would think that it would be difficult to play your best when you're worried about that $10,000 one-of-a-kind cue your holding in your hand. As the popularity of cue collecting increases, the price of rare and collectable cues has also increased. Clearly, cues from retired or deceased cue makers are highly sought after by collectors and can command a pretty hefty price.

If you are thinking about turning your addiction into collecting, approach your buying differently. Don't worry too much about playability, but focus instead on rarity. Whether you collect Meucci cues or Balabushka cues (the REAL ONES not the Chinese versions) do your homework (I say that a lot...no wonder my daughter thinks I'm a pain!). Buy the latest copy of the Blue Book of Pool Cues (last that I heard, the 3rd Edition will be published in the Summer 2005), and read it thoroughly. You will also want to own or borrow as many books on the subject as are available (an excellent book which is currently out of print but available occasionally on Ebay is The Billiard Encyclopedia).

One final note is that just because someone says that they've got an original "substitute your famous dead cue maker of choice here", don't take it at face value. If you are not 100% sure of the source, get it verified before you plunk down any serious cash...the collector cue business is very lucrative and where there is the potential for a lot of profit, there are people who will try to rip you off!

The "411" on Pool cues vs. Carom cues vs. Snooker cues --- Work in progress

Please note: If you haven't thoroughly read the Cue Anatomy 101 AND the Length, Weight and Balance sections....then STOP and go read them first before continuing (unless of course you are already "cue literate"). Choosing the right cue for yourself is all about understanding the details. If you go into a deal clueless, don't be surprised when you walk away with a cue that is something less than the optimal choice which is as bad as  being "cueless"...sorry, I just couldn't resist :-) -- this is currently hidden and will replace the top section after the Cue Anatomy section has been updated